LaLa Land

Today I finally made it to the hamam and don't know what took me so long! This hamam is close to Bob's house and was built in 1550. It was designed by the architect Mimar Sinan who designed many beautiful mosques and baths in Istanbul. The bath is divided into separate sides for men and women. Just inside the women's entrance is a large room heated by a coal stove where the women who work there were relaxing, talking, and enjoying coffee.





I was led to a private room where I undressed to my undies and wrapped myself in a towel. The main bath room is round with lovely porticos and fountains surrounding it. In the center of the room is a large marble slab that is heated from below. The ceiling above is domed with little skylights to let in the natural light. The attendant rinsed me in hot water at one of the fountains and directed me to lie on the hot marble slab. It was a special treat to be the only person there. I really enjoyed relaxing in that beautiful room in total silence save the occasional drip from the ceiling. Twenty minutes later, I had a nice sweat going and she returned to give me a bath and massage.


She began by scrubbing me from top to bottom with a loofah mitt. She removed skin I didn't know I had. When she was finished, I looked like someone had put a large gray eraser through a cheese grater and sprinkled it over my body! It was pretty gross. Then she gave me a soapy bath and massage and took me to one of the fountains where she washed, conditioned, and combed my hair out. Having my hair washed was an exercise in controlled breathing because you never know when she might wash your face or ears or pour a huge tub of hot water on you. I was feeling quite relaxed and pampered.


Then I went back out to my private room and relaxed on the couch. Someone came by with a sweet strong cup of Turkish coffee so I went out and relaxed by the stove with the ladies and talked about work, life, and Michael Jackson's religious proclivities (well, at least that's what I THINK we were talking about. They wouldn't let me get up and get my dictionary.). For only 13 Turkish lira (about $10), it was a well-spent two hours of bliss. Next week I'm going back for a leg waxing as well!


Tomorrow I am visiting my friend Evrim in Ankara!